Ricardo Tisci who left Givenchy where he was artistic director for almost 18 years has been replaced with Clare Waight Keller as its new artistic dire
Ricardo Tisci who left Givenchy where he was artistic director for almost 18 years has been replaced with Clare Waight Keller as its new artistic director. Tisci exited in January and is widely expected to move to Versace. Waight Keller is the second female designer to take the creative lead at a couture house, following in the footsteps of Maria Grazia Chiuri at Christian Dior. Clare who used to be a Chloé designer will report to Philippe Fortunato, CEO of Givenchy Couture.
While Tisci was known to embrace hip-hop and celebrity culture; high-octane embellished collections, notoriety for distinctive graphic sweatshirts, sneakers and sportswear-inspired garments, as well as close personal and professional relationships with celebrities including Madonna, Kanye West, Beyoncé and Kim Kardashian West, it is notworthy that under his tenure, Givenchy also grew into a significant business, estimated to turn over more than €500 million in revenues, with an EBIT margin of 10 to 15 percent.
Waight Keller, in contrast, is known for her calm and affable manner and interest in the arts. The British designer’s success at Chloé was rooted in her ability to deliver wearable, desirable garments and perhaps most importantly, high-margin shoes and handbags that moved at retail. Her talent for accessories will be welcome at Givenchy, which has not delivered a hit bag since the ‘Nightingale’ early in Tisci’s tenure, and the role will see her return to designing menswear as well as womenswear.
A graduate of Royal College of Art in London, she moved to New York to work for Calvin Klein on graduation, subsequently overseeing the menswear design of Ralph Lauren’s Purple label. She was then tapped by Tom Ford to work at Gucci and remained at the brand until she was appointed creative director of Pringle of Scotland in 2005. Waight Keller is expected to present her first collection for Givenchy in October in Paris, for Spring/Summer 2018.
